Not able to find a replacement connector easily I drove it around on 2 cylinders with one of the leads hard wired. It started in December but seemed to be worse Today. But, once in a while, the car wont start again. A volt meter will be needed to perform these tests. The alarm problem is because of the little rubber stopper that pushes the switch down that tells the alarm that the hood is closed horn didnt honk when you hit the lock button on the keyless entry.
I took my car to the local dealership and was advised that I needed to replace the starter lever and steering coupler. I noticed it did it one a month ago and more often now. Towed to a local repair shop, friend new the mechanic. First time it was 110 degrees outside and second time 105 degrees. If there is power to the second terminal, skip to the procedure for checking the starter. I tried everything including disconnecting the battery for a while but the car would not turn over. I'm thinking it's something else.
The failure mileage was approximately 42,000. If there is power, have him release the key from start and plug the connector back in. So far cam and crankshaft sensors replaced after a timing belt replacement. I have also found some here but cant seem to make much out of the discussion over there. I had to wrong part sent to me twice before I gave up and hardwired it. If you don't, something else is keeping the starter from being powered.
It would not start back up, but it would turn over. What concerns me is how many people have never heard of him and return to the dealer every six months for a new starter. Don't know if this helps, but I am going to try it. I found it laying inside the engine, once I pressed it, I was able to start my car! Would you like to answer one of these instead? I wish I had a schematic and I could probably find the offending module. I've yet to address that possibility. Not the answer you're looking for? Internal short in brake switch. Bump it and stick the screwdriver in or, if you can, shine a light into the plug opening.
I can't believe it worked, but it did. Now just found out it's the starter solenoid so hopefully when they replace that it's fixed. It turns over easily, but will not start or. If it does not have a huge drop in voltage, the battery is fine. I would have to unlock it again essentially unlocking all of the doors and then they would lock.
Jolting sensation like someone hit from behind. I have replaced 3 starters and the car doesn't even have 103,000 miles on it. It's been very time consuming and expensive. Have the helper step on the brake and hold the ignition key in the start position and move the gear shift slowly into drive and just wiggle it back and forth. One of the things that happen when a car is shorted is the chip in the key can loose it programing. I took my car to my local Hyundai dealer and explained the issue to my mechanic. First the Hyundai mechanics told me it was because the tires were not perfectly straight.
Code p0705-transm range sensor malf. Put the voltmeter's negative lead on the negative battery post and the positive lead on the positive post. If you turn the ignition to on, not start, do you hear a humming coming from the rear? I think Hyundai is 10yr. He stated that it was good that I pull the car over so quickly cause the car could have caught on fire. Found out I needed a special adaptor just to check fuel pressure.
The fuel side is best checked by having the system connected to a fuel pressure gauge. The alarm went off and I put the key in the ignition. Its not the fuel filter. And then working again ugh. I pressed it, then started my car and it started right up! Carol answered 2 years ago My 2006 6cyl 3. It sounds like a fuel delivery problem. Checked the gap and it was in spec.
Sometimes turning the key on and off enough times will cause the light to show up and when it does the car will start. Ray the sensor was on the front of the engine front corner of the valve cover. All the lights and radio work, so I figure it isn't the battery. This is not going to be fun. If there was no power at the switch, then go to the ignition key, which is the next step in line. I have no clue what to do now and I am not sure why he wants me to contact the company in the link. The failure mileage was not available.
After a few weeks of the same issue I decided to look at some of it myself. Symptoms: cranks but no start. Customer asked to have the camshaft sensor replaced when timing belt was replaced because another shop told him it was bad. If you don't, something else is keeping the starter from being powered. First time happened after driving about 5 minutes to get to the highway, and then another 5 minutes on the highway where it lost power by way of engine miss and graduated to sputtering and loss of power and it died. Anybody figure this out yet? To date, still does not run smooth. Now pull the distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing.