I waited till after the break in before I installed the carb. Someone tell me to cheat on my wife. It was a performance contender, a hot bike and a research test bed. Which leads to another thing: recheck the gap after the hot idle speed has been established. Get the bike started and let it warm up with the choke out.
If when you set your idle mixture you are less than one turn out, then you need to increase the pilot jet. I'm running 1 step richer needle. But I had always the sensation that the Mikuni cable was not working in a corect manner. In other words when idling I crank the throttle open and then when I let go it seems to drift down to idle, doesn't sit down as hard as I remember. Wondering if anyone's got any ideas.
If he cannot tell you exactly what jets he used, what float settings, idle settings, what engine mods, elevation etc etc, his information is just about useless. Take it there with the tape on the throttle and the control hosing indicator. Again a great starting point would be clip position 3 for the needle height. I'll check the leads to the coil. Been on there since then. Replaced them with stainless hex heads.
Im using the mikuni cable. I thought if it was the needle, then the revs would pick up a little before the bogging. I ended up with a 96 needle in mine and for the life of me can't remember for sure, but I think it was on the middle position. Had all the parts from the previous owner, so swapped out the Harley spring for the recommended Mikuni spring. To enrichen or lean out this area you need to exchange the needle outright. I think there are cheaper options. Diese ist zu erreichen unter.
I never was able to get it to stumble by turning further out. I was just wondering what other people who have my same set up are using. Like George mentioned, trying to tune a street bike perfect is pretty much impossible. But that was most likley beacause I had the Mikuni jetted rich even at 600 feet. Does the screw out as far as it goes, mimic a smaller jet then, or is there a still a difference? Now, I'm working five 12h shifts in a row and won't be riding for a while :censor.
Thank Four Speed, I thought this also, but I was thinking to experience some overflow from the overflow hose. Once the installation issues were dealt with the operation of the Mikuni has thus far been a piece of cake. Basically that they had to rejet if the altitude changed. Again a great starting point would be clip position 3 for the needle height. Which leads to another thing: recheck the gap after the hot idle speed has been established.
In addition if i move twist the cable i often feel the idle change. The needle nedd to be inserted in the seat in a particular orientation? Not as common on an 06 as it was the 04-05's. The new high-end front fork cartridge damping system vastly improves performance, comfort and vehicle control for the Harley-Davidson front forks. Different location, different exhaust and cams, as well as ignition. One question: the needle has 4 corners and 4 curve surfaces.
I thought I would post the differences for future readers. The rear cylinder required less trimming than the front to clear. However, I think it is at a transitional point at higher highway speeds 70 mph+ 120+ km hr. The rest of the letters after the first two, three or four represent options, but they are inconsistent. So are you certain or are you assuming? For example example i have seem many posts saying that the Mikuni would work great out of the box but it is also possible to get a well tuned mikuni with other parts that can also provide better mileage as i am sure you know. It is a really good place to start.