Remove dust cap from hub assembly …. I always loved that part!!! These are supposed to be in early Friday morning it's Wednesday today. It's also Prime so it will get to you pretty quickly if you have prime. Remove all old grease from the spindle and generously apply some new grease to it. If you don't have an impact driver … you can try using a Phillips bit in your ratchet and put a big piece of pipe on the ratchet to get torque.
Remove the back plate and torque member with the axle bearing attached from the axle shaft using a suitable press. Place the grease seal on the back of the hub as straight as possible, rubber side out. Remove cotter pin, nut cover, large nut and washer. Remove the six 13mm nuts around the drive flange. You're going to throw it out. Soak the spindle in penetrating oil.
Install axle nut and torque to 101 ft. I doubt any car mechanics bother, but something my airplane mechanic always did at annual inspections, so I picked up that habit. Damage can mean pitting, grooves, or etching. Remember always change … your pads and rotors together for best results. Use a rubber hammer for this; a regular hammer will damage it.
Remove the hub, then remove the six bolts securing the rotor to the hub. All components of the dash trim just snap in and out with clips. The gray area just lifts off if you pull out and up. And getting the inner grease seals in place was tricky, but finally got them to go. Doing so will bend the splash shield and gouge the rotor surface. All 6 loosened up with relative ease should have been a warning sign but this is where my problems began- 2 nuts came off, 1 nut came out with the stud still attached to it, and 3 nuts just spun freely on the stud. Otherwise the repair is pretty straight forward.
Probably good for another 100K. Just be careful not to strip the screw head or you will need to drill the screw out. I have a bad front wheel bearing on my 2006 M35X, as diagnosed my dealer on Apr 20. I thought that was reasonable considering the other prices I've seen dealerships charge for this. Synthetic would probably be even better. Once the screws are outof the rotor, the rotor may still be stuck onto the backing plate. The whole lens just pops out with ease.
You should now be able to pull hub assembly off, including wheel bearings. Carefully insert the small flat blade into the left side near the … bottom and prying it up. The wheel hub can now be removed. To install, reverse removal procedure. It may need to be twisted and turned to get it out. You may need to let the grease stand in the sun for a bit and stand on it to get the grease through.
Any Help in finding reliable 'reasonable' seller source Greatly Appreciated. I ended up cutting the old connector off. I may be wrong all together and the part I linked you to may not even fit. They also recommended a fuel injection cleaning service. If you have a grease packer, insert the bearing and squeeze until all of the old grease is gone and the new grease blossoms out.
Then pull straight out it will take some force and it will feel like you may break the light, just make sure you are pulling straight back on the light, not at an angle. Put a towel down below the front of the hub and start tugging on the rotor and wiggle it back and forth. Tighten the wheel bearing lock nut. I ended up needing a zip-tie to hold the new one together. Failure to do so may result in damage to the sensor wires and the sensor becoming inoperative.