Okay this took way too long for me to figure out, but my multimeter is a cheap piece of junk and doesn't have a 10A fuse capacity I didn't exactly understand step 3 of serge's neat instructions until now. I measured parasitic draw many times with my 10A digital meter. Edit: If I do indeed have a draw after all of this, I will probably wait until tomorrow to get a hold of the proper fuse diagrams to start tinkering with them. If I didn't include enough information please let me know what you need to identify or at least narrow down the problem. Right now I'm working on borrowing a better multimeter from somebody but that could take a day or two to make happen.
New batteries aren't fully charged and may have not been fully charged by just driving. An inductive amp clamp is best as it won't wake up all the modules which is what will happen when you disconnect then reconnect the negative battery terminal. Check for current drains on the battery in excess of 50 milliamps 0. If using a current meter in series, use the highest current scale on your meter probably 10A or 20A. Testing the parasitic drain is very simple. With that question on the table, the first battery, based on age, was due to fail.
If taking the approach of turning off the interior lights not sure if in the 2004 this is done at the dimmer switch or on the dome light itself be sure to open the appropriate door and leave it open before waiting the 40 minutes. I've gone to an inductive amp clamp for just this reason. Today I drove with the radio off to charge the battery as I needed a hot shot because of a dead battery. If draw ok, check alternator output. Should I reconnect the battery terminal just to see what happens I don't have anywhere important to drive anytime soon, and the newest battery is still covered under warrantee? The battery is not charging. The radio display doesn't even light up with the time, does not work.
The staff at AutoZone are ready to help you when it comes to finding a new Ford Taurus battery for your daily driver. The way the batteries died in such similar ways in such a small time frame is somewhat uncomfortable to brush off as coincidence, but I suppose its good news for me. We're here to help you find that perfect Battery for your Ford Taurus. What doe the indicators in the dash do? It may take 45 minutes or better before all the modules in your 2004 go in to sleep mode, 5 minutes certainly won't be enough and 20 minutes may not be. I am absolutely, 100% positive I'm not accidentally leaving the headlights on or anything like that. If the draw is 600mA, the fuse blews.
Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury. Amperage draw will vary from vehicle to vehicle depending on the equipment package. I don't know if your horn grounds by the mount or of you need to run a pos and neg to it. I suggest leaving the fuses out as you remove them make sure you have a fuse map first so you can get the correct fuses back in the correct circuits. Entering your vehicle information in our Year Make Model selector up top, helps ensure you get an auto part that fits your car, truck or other type of vehicle.
Choose Firestone Complete Auto Care and you'll get a durable battery for your 2004 Ford Taurus plus free battery testing and speedy replacement. This means when you visit the expert technicians at your local Firestone Complete Auto Care you're getting the best 2004 Taurus car battery at a great price. Install the mounting nut and tighten to 22-29 ft-lbs 30-40 Nm. Posted on Apr 25, 2010 If the blower motor not blowing,and it is on high, bump the lower motor to see if it will try and start working again,if it does,replace the blower motor. The alternator passed three test on the test machine. Although, I did leave it hooked up while I went inside to post my results, and when I went back out to reattach the battery terminal the reading was between 19 and 20 mA, but I didn't think it was a significant change.
To properly isolate each of the circuits, all of the fuses may need to be removed and install one fuse, note the amperage draw, then remove the fuse and install the next fuse, etc. I am gonna take to a shop but any ideas or solutions would be helpful thanks tennisshoes answered about a year ago Well you did a big no no by disconnecting a battery cable with the engine running, had the system been functioning you could have fried every electronic componet in the car, as a customer of mine learned, cost him dearly to get his car running again, anyway onto your problem, this vehicle has a computer controlled charging system, so if the computer doesn't see everything it should with regards to proper voltage, correct inputs from ignition and battery plus any current load demands it will not turn on the alternator, so a shop is going to have to test the system out, hopefully it is just a bad reading and not the computer itself as that can get expensive fast. Connect a fused jumper wire between the negative battery cable and the negative battery post to prevent modules from resetting and to catch capacitive drains. I think the wire from the ignition switch is bad and am thinking of just running a new conductor in its place. If battery ok, check for parasitic draw. The new battery is still under warrantee so i'm not too concerned about that, but is there a problem with my car or did I just win the cruddy battery lotto here? The trucks I test can have 28 modules; guess what happens when you reconnect the battery terminal. You have to remove the cowl vent panel.
The times I started up the car previous to discovering my battery died seemed perfectly fine, it starts right up, but I'll leave the car in my driveway for a day or two and go back, and the battery doesn't even have enough juice to turn the motor over. The engine won't start if the compression is lower than 70 - 80 psi. Yes analog usually have 0. We know that car batteries tend to die at the absolute worst, most inconvenient time. Do not reinstall the fuses until you are finished testing.
If you are handy, try unplugging the horn and run a jumper wire from the battery to the horn and see if it honks. In my Windstar 98 all equipped, it takes like 5-10 sec to stabilize. If you car had a 10amp draw that can blow the meter fuse the battery would go dead very fast. I've had the car for a few months now and this problem only appeared within this last month. When I parked , I turned the ignition off and the off the dash lights came on!! Anything higher will drain the battery. If the horn stays on after you reconnect the battery you have either a stuck horn button on your steering wheel or a stuck horn relay.
The modules should power down and go to sleep in maybe 5min. After my 40 mins, I should hook up my multimeter and detach the jumper cables without breaking the circuit, and that should give me the proper reading, correct? Use of a test lamp or voltmeter is not an accurate method due to the number of electronic modules. After leaving the positive terminal disconnected overnight, I tested it today and got a reading of 1. I don't actually own a battery charger so I will take it back to the store I got it from to have it tested and charged tomorrow morning for free its just about closing time right now. Notice the amount of time that Ford suggests monitoring the current for.