This rear suspension system from Hotchkis Sport Suspension includes tubular upper and lower control arms. That larger bore — or a combination of several smaller pistons — multiplies the line pressure into more clamping force. I did a search and some got lucky and were able to find a chassis from someone that abandoned a build my guess it was not cheap, but probably a decent discount unfortunately someone loses in that deal and others have attempted to beef up the stock frame, but I have no real information whether they were successful after all the work. Fuel Lines: Fuel lines are available in many options as well. Plus my car is a budget built driver.
Using Delrin and aluminum, the company developed the Del-alum bushing, which removes virtually all deflection from the bushing and lets the control arms move smoothly without any resistance caused by the bushings. Outside of drilling four small holes, there are no required modifications to the factory floor pan. Just welding up the gaps between welds made quite a difference. We were going to cut all of the brackets off and weld our 4-link brackets in place for our chassis. Parish frame with frame chart part number 3908663 and date of March 5, 1968 - 1st shift A. You may have to before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. Let them make sure its all squared up before it goes under the car.
For now, cut the mount off the frame, but do so carefully so it can be welded back on later. Brief description of the work done so far can be found here: Thanks Donny. This kit is shipped unassembled so that you can create the perfect fit to your specific car. Each of the companies included in this chapter have a variety of combinations that have been found to work well to lower the car and provide a good compromise between ride quality and handling to meet most expectations. The steering is a Ford-style Fox platform rack-and-pinion system. And in the aftermarket, the full gamut of tech¬nologies is being utilized.
Step-12: Weld Metal Strip to Inner Wheel Tub Weld a 2-inch-wide strip of sheet metal to the inner wheel tub that was cut out. The taller spindle makes the upper control arms go uphill to the wheel, which produces a far better camber gain. Welding skills are required for installation. You can usually rent these from a local auto parts store. To tie the body to the frame this brace kit bolts to the floor in four positions to further strengthen the entire assembly.
Cut this area very carefully, as the quarter panel is on the other side of the outer wheel tub, and it is very close to it near the wheel lip. It may help to tape the cushion to the spring for installation. One option is to simply replace the entire chassis. Step-4: Cut Frame Continued At the forward section of the frame rail, cut a section of the original frame approximately 4 inches long along the top and bottom. Another visual re-design was on the rear section of the main frame rail in front of the rear wheel. The alternative is to remove them and route new brake and fuel lines on the outside of the fully boxed frame.
Schwartz fits the chassis with a 1-inch splined sway bar with billet arms and adjust¬able links. Grease the bushings after bolting the brackets in place. Install the mount on the frame the exact distance rearward, and match the position on the left to the right side of the body. Many companies have aftermarket brakes for these cars, notably Wilwood and Baer if that path is right for your build. Art Morrison Enter¬prises and Schwartz Performance, Inc. Fuel Tanks: Stainless Steel or Aluminum in Polished or Brushed finishes available in 16 or 22 gallon.
Step-6: Mount Sway Bar This car was upgraded to a Hotchkis Extreme Performance Sway Bar. Many of the aftermarket disc brake conversions also widen the track. We also have a nice clean flowing transition up the front kickup as well which really makes our chassis look better when its under the car. However, the coilover should be used with an aftermarket lower control arm designed to distribute the load over the circumference of the spring pocket, rather than just the two shock mounts. More good news, though; almost everything you need to convert your Chevelle into a modern-handling machine can be done through bolt-on components. You may have to before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. For a car that will compete for top honors, a completely new chassis can make a lot of sense for detailing at a level necessary to be considered.
Another area of suspension where opinions vary widely is bushing mate¬rial. On a 1966—1967 Chevelle, this conversion allows you to use a 12-inch-wide wheel. Looking at the rear suspension, the basic four-link system that General Motors designed is pretty good. Just welding up the gaps between welds made quite a difference. Chevelle Frames 1964 through 1967 Chevelle frame dimensions 1968 through 1972 Chevelle frame dimensions. The better ones incorporate a mechanical emergency brake for real world use.
The methods vary, with differing opinions on the best mounting locations for strength versus ease of installation. Photo Courtesy Hotchkis Sport Suspension. Nor do I understand the costs to bring a talented welder in that has a sense on what to add and where to add structural support that will provide some of the benefits as the pricey counterparts. But until then I'll keep looking at the various for sale posts and maybe someone will make me a hell of a deal on the frame. Photo Courtesy Hotchkis Sport Suspension. This example shows their name and number across the rear brace on the driver side as opposed to the side rail. For 1971 and 1972, all V8 Chevelles got these reinforcements.
They will weigh nearly the same as stamped originals, and although stronger, few cars will ever over-stress the original stamped units. He is still debating some of the top end coil overs. The installation looks much better if you spend extra time getting the fitment as close to perfect as possible. So I can't really start over. Thanks Tory Best way to stiffen up the frame is with a full roll cage. This makes it easy to scribe a mark where you will be cutting.