It is located behind the transmission and is not too difficult to remove, but care must be taken to avoid injury when removing this heavy piece of equipment. Torque the bolts to 37 feet pounds. For the full step-by-step article, please visit The transfer case on your Ford is a heavy piece of equipment your transmission uses to send power to the front and rear wheels. The top plug is used for filling. Two additional perks are that the case is inexpensive and easy to find. It was used in early Broncos from 1966 until 1977 and it was used in some Ford pickups.
This will help to drain faster. The process for removal and installation is the same. The drain plug is located on the bottom left. Carefully clean the old and make note of the gasket surface. Aside from weight, it is also located near the exhaust and catalytic converter, so be sure your truck is sufficiently cooled before taking on this task.
There are only four 10 millimeter bolts, two on each side connecting the skid plate to the frame. Step Two - Jack up the rear end Chock the front wheels. It is drivers drop and it was available with a couple different low range ratios. The top two on each side are the most difficult to remove and you will do yourself a big favor by using a swivel extension type of ratchet to remove them. The components may need to be replaced due to overuse. This page is dedicated to those cases and provides a list of vehicles, a list of cases that were found in them, and photos for reference.
Step Five - Remove the skid plate if you have one If you have a skid plate under your transfer case, you will need to remove it for easy access. If you marked the shafts, make sure to align them the same way that they were when you removed the old transfer case. Step Eight - Raise the transfer case into position Use the floor jack to raise the new transfer case into position and re-install the six 13 millimeter bolts to the transmission. The transfer case is mounted on the back of the transmission with six 13 millimeter bolts. Step Nine - Replace the skid plate, drive shafts, and fluid Replace the skid plate and drive shafts into place. Over time, the full-time four-wheel drive could wear out other components. Set the new transfer case and wheel it back under and jack it back up into place.
When removing the drive shaft, be sure to not damage the splines on the inside of the drive shaft housing. Replace the transfer case fluid with a product approved for Ford trucks. It is a push-pull type of connector and should be easy to disengage. After removing the bolts, set it on an extra floor jack if you have one and wheel it out. The transfer case is heavy.
Why you want it: Early Bronco versions have a strong housing, are small and lightweight, and can handle a fair amount of torque. Bronco Dana 20: 1966-1972 — These cases had a 2. Use jack stands to support and stabilize the truck after lifting the rear end with a floor jack. Even though their transmissions are different, the Ford F-150 and F-250's engines have similar transfer case setups. Step Four - Remove the drive shafts Unbolt the rear drive shaft from the transfer case. You might need some additional help here. It is probably a good idea to use new gaskets, but if your old gaskets are still in good condition, you may opt to re-use them.
It is heavy-duty, geardriven, and relatively easy to find. Use an additional jack or extra jack stands to support the transfer case when you are ready to remove it from the back of the transmission. Repeat this process with the front drive shaft. Step Six - Remove the transfer case There is a transfer case wire harness that needs to be unhooked. . The bolt pattern is the Ford rotation of the 6 bolt circular bolt pattern.
Remove the top plug and then the bottom. Step Seven - Clean the metal mating surfaces Use a metal cleaner to clean the mating surfaces between the truck and the new transfer case. The Jeep Dana 20 and Ford Bronco Dana 20 are not the same. There are four 12 millimeter bolts holding this in place. Step Three - Drain the transfer case fluid Place a drain pan under the transfer case. Replacing the transfer case takes some muscle, but you can get it done in a few hours.
Once the bolts are removed, pull it from the back so you can pull it free of the transfer case. Any nicks or gouges will cause fluid leakage. Additionally, some have a slip-yoke on the rear output. Step One - Remove the battery terminals Disconnect the battery terminals before starting any work. The 205 may not be shift-on-the-fly for some, and confusion may exist because there are six versions. Made with both right- and left hand outputs, and divorced versions.
The 205 is available in six different versions. . . . . .